On the big 1330cc:
- Power is increased right off idle to redline. Taking rear wheel horsepower from the low 90’s to over 115hp.
- Torque is amplified from near 90 stock to almost 105 ft lbs.
We get the factory rated engine hp at the rear wheels. Which is a 20% gain!!!
On stage 2,
there is more torque from 2000rpm up then there is at the very peak of stock output.
Thats incredible.
Stage 1:
- is for everybody. A budget priced improvement over any stock setup. All around better performance.
Optimizing Torque, Horsepower, Engine Heat, Exhaust Heat & Drivability.
Addressing Throttle Control, Throttle Response, Fuel Delivery, Ignition Timing, Torque Control, ECU Speed Limits,
Rpm Limits, Gear Limits, Temp Limits, Torque Limits & Engine start up time. This option is for those wanting to save a
little money or keeping stock exhaust to be quiet as possible. (no airbox sound vs Stage 2)
Stage 2:
- is where everything is optimized. Premium flash for everyone.
- adds more power from off idle to redline over the stage 1.
With the most notable attributes of:
- Increased Torque from idle to 4500rpm.
- Increased power output from 7000 - 8800 rpm. Optimized torque below 7000.
(Requires Airbox modification) Airbox modification gives better airflow with
increased engine sound output. Colder air intake and fan cycle temperatures allow re-optimized protection limiting,
ignition timing and fuel curves. Greater peak power. Extended low rpm torque range. Increased high rpm horsepower.
This is the way it should come off the showroom floor.
- 1330cc requires user to mod or send in their air filter lid with ecu. (Except New Style 22+ with factory modded box) (instructions above for user mod)
- 1000cc requires user to follow instructions and completely remove specific air inlet parts.
The ecu mapping is much different:
- remapped fuel, throttle, ignition timing, limits and thresholds for AFR, Exhaust temperatures
- remapped torque limiting logic, temperature limiting logic, timing and knock limiting logic
- open airbox for cold airflow. This works for both power production and detonation prevention.
- lower cooling fan temperatures keep engine in a happier state.
- decreased engine safety limiting (allowed by cooler engine temps and air temps)
- revised knock sensor logic (allowed by special tuning, cooler engine temp and air temps)
Please note that you MUST send in airbox lid (air filter lid) with ecu for small modifications on pre 2021 models. Some models of 2021 and all 2022+ come factory with an improved air inlet setup. The air filter lid mod becomes optional. (Better power with but not required as was previously)
USER NOTES:
It is imperative that stage 1 or stage 2 tuning along with specific air box or inlet modification never be mixed up or used beyond their intended development. IE: You can't run stage 2 airbox modifications with stage 1 ecu tuning. And you cant run stage 2 tuning without the proper air inlet modifications.
The dynamic tuning of the ecu allows the user the use of whatever exhaust configuration. Stock, Cat delete, free flow muffler etc in any combination. However, it is recommended to have either a cat delete or free flow muffler with the stage 2. Or both. A well flowing exhaust both works better for power and just as importantly retains less heat around the bike and engine compartment.
Stage 1 is a premium fuel 91 octane tuning. But users can use 87 octane in an emergency and follow safe engine driving habits with the fuel. (keep rpm up, use low gears, don't lug engine, stay below half throttle) Higher than 91 octane fuel can be easily used, use what works best.
Stage 2 is a premium fuel 91+ octane tuning only. NEVER use 87 octane.
Through the use of advanced logic, temperature sensors, knock sensors, oxygen sensors and torque calculations, power will be limited without ideal conditions. The use of poor fuel or exhaust configuration, or high temperatures will have power limited. Just because something works, doesn't mean its ok or ideal. Let the engine breath and feed it the proper fuel. And you will be rewarded.
Extra Information
Fuel Octane: Requires 91 octane pump fuel. 93-94 pump fuel can be used and will see automatic benefits as the ecu
will self adjust. (ecu is very dynamic with well implemented use of oxygen sensors and knock sensors)
Note: 89 or 87 can be used in an emergency. If used, stay below 50% grip throttle and don't lug engine in a high gear
with low rpm. Keep engine rpms higher (5000+rpm) only using low gears. The throttle opening should never outpace
engine rpm (load engine). Cycle fuel tank before riding normal again. Always use 91+ on stage 2 setups.
Exhaust: Our mapping covers all combinations of exhaust. Stock, Cat Delete and/or Aftermarket Muffler. We find
straight cat delete pipes are the best as baffle type (that look like a mini muffler) usually flow less then the stock cat!
Stage 1 - works good with stock exhaust and best with either one of a cat delete or a freeflow muffler.
(Using both a cat delete + freeflow muffler may loose bottom end Torque on some setups)
Stage 2 - works with stock exhaust but performs better and better the more the exhaust flows. Both a cat delete and a
freeflow muffler work best. But any combination performs.
Clutch: For best clutch longevity and heat avoidance, a stock tuned engine should always be kept 3500rpm and
above for 3rd-4th gear and 4000 rpm or above in 5th-6th gears. (Due to clutch lock up point and variable oil pressure)
With new found power of Monster Fi Tuning, this becomes even more important. Slipping clutches create heat,
deteriorate the oil and wear the clutch plates prematurely. It is recommended to always keep engine 4000rpm and
above in 3rd-4th gears and 4500rpm and above in 5th-6th gears. Should last a lifetime. (with proper oil changes)